Fleas are parasites, feeding directly on man or other warm
blooded animals. Usually you or your pet serve as these "hosts". A flea can
jump 7-8 inches vertically and 14-16 inches horizontally. A skin reaction
to a flea bite would be a slightly raised, red, itching spot. Sometimes bleeding
does occur. Fleas usually require warm and humid conditions to develop. Due
to the flea cycle and weather conditions many people don't realize they have
a flea problem until they return home from vacation or a move to new premises
and are confronted by "hungry fleas". There are several types of fleas but
the most common is the cat flea even on dogs. Fleas are attracted to body
heat, movement, and carbon dioxide exhaled.
APPEARANCE:
The average size ranges from 1/12-1/6 inch long, being very small and without
wings. Their bodies are narrow if you view it from the sides allowing them
for movement in narrow areas. Because their bodies are covered with spines
projecting backward, they are difficult to remove by shaking or scratching.
DIET :
Adults feed on blood, the larvae (looks like a caterpillar)eat "flea diet" consisting of dried blood.The flea bite caused from this feeding by the adults can become inflamed. After the feeding the flea will begin mating..starting the vicious cycle all over again..
HABITS AND BIOLOGY:
Fleas go through a complete metamorphosis. There are four distinct stages:
eggs,larvae,pupae,and adult.Flea eggs are laid on the host or are deposited
on the floor or ground surface.They also are often found in upholstery or
pet's bedding.A female flea will continue to lay a few eggs every day until
she has reached up to 200-400 eggs.
These eggs will develop into flea larvae
from 2 days to several weeks,depending on the temperature and humidity. Flea
larvae are active and look like maggots. The larvae will feed on organic
debris, but particularly like to feed on feces of the adult fleas. This "flea
diet" contains undigested blood. The flea larvae are hard to spot and are
found deep into the carpets or the cracks and crevices of floors and upholstery.
They are very difficult to vacuum, becoming entwined in the carpet fibers.
The next stage called the pupae will look like a cocoon, also hard to spot. No spray will kill flea pupae..but a vacumn cleaner can pull them up.
Under warm conditions many adult fleas will emerge from this protective cocoon
within 7-14 days, longer under less favorable conditions.
This flea cycle from eggs through the adult stage is generally 30-60 days..
It is critical to break the flea cycle as soon as possible.
The insect growth regulators do break the cycle, but at the larvae stage..You have several weeks of the pupae,continuing to hatch out..so a good residual insecticide is needed to kill the emerging adults.
Many times you need to spray the residual insecticide again, because the emerging pupae can be very forceful.
A consistent vacuuming program will help greatly. This will help in particular if you have a great amount of flea pupae left.
You will need both an insect growth regulator to cut the cycle and a good residual insecticide labeled for flea control to reach the adult stages.
Whenever you see adult fleas crawling on your pet, it is only a symptom of
a much larger problem. Current studies indicate that adult fleas account
for only 5% of the total flea population in any given situation. Eggs
account for 50%, larvae account for about 35%, and the remaining 10% are
the pupal cocoons. That means that for every single adult flea living
on your dog or cat, there are 10 eggs, 7 larvae, and 2 cocoons. These
various life cycle stages will be found anywhere in the pet's environment,
but will be most concentrated in the areas that the pet spends most of
its time. Remember, when the adult flea on the pet lays an egg, it will
fall off the hairs in just a few minutes....it is very similar to them
sowing "seeds". So, areas where the pet sleeps or lies around will have
the most eggs. If the pet usually walks through certain paths (either
indoors or outdoors), there will also be a substantial amount of eggs
scattered in those areas. What this means is that environmental flea control
must be spread over the pet's entire environment, focusing on the areas
the pet spends the majority of his or her time.
The best time to start a flea control program
is in the late spring ,prior to an infestation. Since adult fleas
comprise only 5% of the total flea population. To contain an infestation,
fleas must be controlled: Whenever you see adult fleas crawling on your
pet, it is only a symptom of a much larger problem. Current studies indicate
that adult fleas account for only 5% of the total flea population in any
given situation. Eggs account for 50%, larvae account for about 35%, and
the remaining 10% are the pupal cocoons. That means that for every single
adult flea living on your dog or cat, there are 10 eggs, 7 larvae, and 2
cocoons.
These various life cycle stages will be found anywhere
in the pet's environment, but will be most concentrated in the areas that
the pet spends most of its time. Remember, when the adult flea on the pet
lays an egg, it will fall off the hairs in just a few minutes....it is very
similar to them sowing "seeds". So, areas where the pet sleeps or lies around
will have the most eggs. If the pet usually walks through certain paths
(either indoors or outdoors), there will also be a substantial amount of
eggs scattered in those areas. What this means is that environmental flea
control must be spread over the pet's entire environment, focusing on the
areas the pet spends the majority of his or her time.
1. The use of insect growth inhibitors and residual insecticides.
Frequently dust, sweep, vacuum, and mop all surfaces where
pets or you
have been. Eggs are laid on the pet and drop off as it moves.
All affected pets should be treated at this time and removed from the premises
for 4 to 6 hours.
Remove birds from the home.
Cover or remove fish, and turn off the pump.
You should keep covered shoes on until all treated areas have dried (4-6
hours).
Successful treatment involves the use of a residual insecticide to control
the adult flea and a growth inhibitor to prevent the egg from developing.
Recommended insect growth inhibitors:
Recommended residual insecticides:
Mix the residual insecticide and growth inhibitor in a
pressure lawn and garden sprayer according to directions.
For every 1,000 square feet of carpeted surface, mix:
- 2 oz. Conquer + 1 oz. Growth inhibitor + 1 gallon of water
- 1.5 oz. Suspend SC + 1 oz. Growth inhibitor + 1 gallon of water
RECOMMENDED OUNCES ARE FOR MAXIMUM STRENGTH AND
EFFECT
NOTE: For hardwood or tile, these formulations will
cover 1,500 sq. ft.
Suspend is the best choice for concrete
surfaces and hardwood flooring. It adheres to the surface more readily
than other liquid insecticides.
Use up all the solution the same day you mix it. Does
not store well.
Expect to see fleas the first month. These are pupa that
continue to
emerge. Results from the growth inhibitor cannot be judged for about four
weeks. Retreatments with the residual insecticide will probably be necessary
within the first 30 days.
The growth inhibitor will last on the average about 4
months, and could
last up to 6 to 7 months.
An alternative
would be to use
ULTRACIDE,
an aerosol with a residual insecticide to kill the adult fleas and an insect
growth regulator.
EXTERIOR CONTROL:
An exterior flea problem can be caused by your pets and/or other animals
in the area. Exterior treatment is most effective in a contained area that
is kept mowed and free of debris.
For long term results , a recommended granulated insecticide to kill
the adult fleas would be
TALSTAR
GRANULARS.
FOR EVERY 1,0000 SQ. FT. OF GROUND USE:
This should be repeated at least once every two months during the
flea season.
Talstar will work on ticks as well at the same rate of dosage.
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